All in a Day

West coasters may boast about sea to sky, and riding a bike and a board on the same day, but there’s all that and more in the Rockies.

Despite being located only 60km away, Banff and Lake Louise are worlds apart, and there’s nothing like the spring thaw to differentiate the two. It’s a bit like Narnia – stepping through that mysterious door to another world. Only in this case that antique armoire happens to look more like the Trans-Canada Highway.

Testing my luck on the Bow

In Lake Louise, spring is still a ways off. The peaks surrounding the lake are formidably snow capped, while navigating trails is still an art form cut out for snowshoes over hiking boots. Although powder days may be at an end, and the ski area is winding down for the season, it’s still far more wintery than any major Canadian city has seen this year. A trip to Lake Louise or Spray Lakes at this time of year is sort of like going back in time – holding on to winter for just a little longer!

Back in Banff, with old man winter officially been ousted, folks are flocking to summer pursuits, breaking out the road and mountain bikes, trading pants for shorts (at least while the sun’s out), fishing and paddling along the Bow River, and the eagerness for hiking season is palpable. Trail maps are being poured over, tents are getting aired out, and visions of roaring campfires are dancing in our heads.

Although the streets are coming alive with weekend warriors and tour groups, there is still a quietness just beyond the downtown storefronts. Step off the beaten path, and the park is very much wild and still.

Mt Rundle with elk in the foreground

Case in point: an early evening walk along the famed holes of the Banff Springs golf course is a simple yet remarkable experience. As the course has yet to open for the season, there was barely another soul around, and being in a National Park, you’re free to wander around…as long as you give the elk lots of space. There were roughly 200 of them grazing on the fairways and making themselves at home, making for a memorable sight as the clouds lifted over Mt. Rundle. There are some jaw-dropping sights on the course, and if your golf game is as good as mine, right now is the time to take in one of the least known vistas in Banff minus the $200ish green fees.

Banff National Park boasts not only world-class scenery and outdoor pursuits, but also the world-renowned Banff Centre. For a small town, we get our share of incredible acts, and a performance by country singer/songwriter Del Barber on the weekend didn’t disappoint. He had a line to the effect of “everything in its place” that seemed to perfectly capture this corner of Canada. There’s something almost too perfect about watching a moving performance in this mountain community. Perhaps it gets old or normal after a while, but compared to city living, Banff really does feel like paradise sometimes.

Skookin’ Skoki!

Taking in the view on the way to Skoki

Try as winter might to stick around, there’s no denying that spring is on the way. With the season quickly coming to a close, I jumped at the opportunity to finally make my way to the famed Skoki Lodge (of Will & Kate fame, minus their helicoptered-in washroom with running water and all). Despite only being able to sneak out for one night, it was worth every minute.

After checking in and being scolded for arriving so late (you’re normally required to sign in around 9am, and this was 2:30pm), I took the gondola up, only to be greeted by more doubt by a token Aussie liftie (“yo dude, you better hurry”) as I strived to get to Skoki in time for dinner. Not having done the route before, I wasn’t sure just how long the suggested 3-5 hour ski was going to take.

After doing my best kamikaze ski imitation down to Temple Lodge, I strapped on my skins to my skis and started the 11km trek in. With the sun shining down, and the packed snow stretching out in front of me, I was mindful of the time and keen to arrive before dinner. Despite having a brief image of getting stuck outside in the wild (a la Han Solo and spending the night inside his stinky tauntaun) I pushed on past Boulder Pass, across the frozen lake, and up the steep Deception Pass.

Catching a quick breather and some dubious photos, it was time to take off the skins and hold my breath as my skis seemed to instantly turn into toothpicks on the descent to the lodge. After a few harrowing turns, including a full blown faceplant or two, I quickly saw smoke rising through the trees, and arrived at my final destination in a little less than 2 hours.

Skoki

Confession: spending my work days with Banff Heritage Tourism clearly makes me a history geek, so anytime I get anywhere that boasts a rustic, heritage, backcountry, etc. feel I get pretty stoked. This place has it in spades. No electricity? Check. No plumbing? Check. Cold beer and gourmet fill-your-boots meals? Check. It doesn’t get much better than this for a luxurious backcountry trip.

Skoki is adorned with countless black and white heritage photos, ski memorabilia, backcountry books, and just about any other paraphernalia you’d expect to find in a historic lodge in the woods (and a terrifyingly high swing out back…seriously). Easily the kind of place where you can hang out for a few days and ski or relax and eat to your heart’s content. You just might start to smell a little more like the wildlife that lives there year-round after a little while.

A wee bit of snow

After getting used to the sunny weather, it came as a bit of a surprise to wake up to big fat snowflakes falling down the next morning. As we skied out, Deception Pass lived up to its name in the swirling wet snow, as the end was never in sight despite constantly skiing up, up and up. Fortunately, it’s all downhill once you reach the summit, and the Skoki adventure was over before I knew it. Next time hopefully I’ll be hiking in!

Choose Your Own Adventure

As winter quickly loses its grip on the Rockies, and the snow continues to recede from Banff’s majestic peaks, the playground that is Banff National Park has slowly begun to reveal its bounties. Apparently we’re a little late in the season to be just hitting some trails, thanks to a once-in-a-decade snowfall this winter, making for an epic spring runoff as witnessed by the turbulent and swollen Bow River running through town.

Tourists are slowly starting to filter into town, but the real onslaught is still a few weeks away, meaning the trails are still relatively quiet. It’s less the tourists than the wildlife that needs to be worried about, at least right now, as grizzly bears are still on the look for tasty morsels to chow down on after a long winter’s nap. Thankfully, I haven’t had any close encounters of the furry kind so far, while the weather has more or less cooperated despite what is traditionally “Monsoon June”.

Seeing all the amazing things that Banff and the Rocky Mountain National Parks have to offer reminds me of that most excellent series from my childhood, “Choose Your Own Adventure” (google this for an interesting selection of titles these days – the wonders of photoshop!). Remember these? You had to choose the next step in the story, unsure of the ending, but confident in your direction. Sometimes it ended as you hoped, other times, not so much, but the beauty was you could always go back and try again, setting off on another trail so to speak. The sheer number and variety of trails out here brings that adventure to life.

Dyl and I atop Mt Paget

Consider: Within a 2 hour drive from the town of Banff, there are 4 National Parks and 3 Provincial Parks, each boasting more trails than you can shake a hiking stick at. Whether it’s a towering mountain summit, backcountry secluded oasis, lush alpine forest, pristine glacier lake, frigid rocky canyon, or gently meandering river trail, there’s a route for every interest and ability. And each park has its own unique features, ecosystem and vistas that encourages exploration. What better way to get out and enjoy nature’s wonders than through a scenic ascent or walk through sparsely traveled trails? And the view after a long slog up switchbacks and scree makes the burn well worth it, even if there are flurries along the way like I encountered last weekend on the way up to Mt Paget in Yoho National Park.

Virl Lake, Jasper National Park

If hiking isn’t your bag, maybe biking will do it. Countless trails run around and through Tunnel Mountain in Banff and beyond, ranging from riverside views to hair-raising drops and turns through the woods, giving new meaning to the term “mountain bike”, at least for those like me who have only known hills, curbs and stumps to contend with in Ontario. You know you’re in for a good run on a trail named “Star Wars”. Or, for a more horizontal ride, follow the paved trails out to the stunning views at Johnson Lake, Cascade Pools, or Lake Minnewanka (a nearly hidden path part way along the Johnson Lake hiking trail leads to a deserted cabin that was once occupied by a hermit for 27 (!) years in the early 1900s).

Canoeing is another option, despite the frigid glacier waters that flow from above. A leisurely paddle along the meandering river that connects the Bow River and Vermilion Lakes just outside of town affords stunning views of the ranges on all sides, while a put-in just south of Lake Louise will rush you down the Bow towards Banff while paralleling the Trans Canada at times.

Mt Rundle, Johnson Lake, Banff National Park

The list really goes on, with climbing at the top of the list for many, or simply relaxing in a campsite along picturesque Two Jack Lake or taking a drive to the famous Moraine Lake among the various possibilities. And rainy days offer no shortage of indoor activities other. Lit up like a beacon at night, the Banff Park Museum is a stunningly preserved building and collection from over a century ago. On the other end of the spectrum lies The Banff Centre, and their vast array of live performances through the year. Last weekend was the wrap up of their spring jazz program, culminating in an epic live jam at the futuristic MacLab. A constant stream of musicians seamlessly intertwined over the 3 hour plus set, taking a break only to dance to the ceaseless tide of energy and enthusiasm by talented artists from around the world. Truly inspiring. Makes me wish I had even an ounce of musical talent!

Living in a National Park is a privilege that I am constantly reminded of, and even more so in that the town of Banff has so much to offer through the year, but especially in the summer. No wonder so many people end up staying…

Music Highlights:

Sam Roberts Collider: So far so good. High expectations after past albums, looks like this is another hit.

Death Cab for Cutie Codes and Keys: Their latest album will be tough to match Narrow Stairs. But the new material was solid at their performance in Calgary a few weeks ago.

CBC Radio 3: By far the best use of my tax dollars. Free. Online. 24/7. Awesome. Makes me wonder how I ever listened to the radio before.

Beer Highlights:

Banff Avenue Brewing Co: This has become my go-to in town, serving up a tasty IPA and Stout that can hold their own in any Canadian beer competition. And with a wheat beer on the way just in time for summer, their patio overlooking Banff Ave will be hopping (oh yeah, pun intended)

Still Winter…and other musings on life in the Rockies

I had heard before I headed west that winter tends to last rather long in the Rockies, but it’s one of those things that’s tough to believe until you see it. Well it’s true. This is a beautiful place, but pity those who hate winter. It’d be a tough go to live here if you didn’t enjoy the snow!

Thankfully, there are still plenty of things to do in April. Cross country ski trails are still wide open, and most of the ski hills run until the May long weekend (!). Last weekend brought a foot of snow, followed by the brightest blue sky I can recall contrasted against a sea of white peaks and valleys. It made for a pretty sweet day up at Sunshine, which certainly lived up to its name.

But for all the natural beauty of the area, there are plenty of other diversions that don’t require long underwear or ski boots. Canmore is fortunate to have one of the coolest cafés I’ve seen, Communitea. It’s a fitting name. Not only do they serve some delicious teas (in giant french presses to boot!) but they foster an excellent venue for bringing the community together in their relaxed atmosphere and killer live shows. With a maximum occupancy of 90 people, this is about as intimate as it gets, especially for the caliber of acts they bring in. I was fortunate to see David Myles a couple weeks back and looking forward to Royal Wood this week.

And with Calgary only an hour away, if you can’t get your fix out here, it’s a quick trip to the big city. The Rural Alberta Advantage drew a sell out crowd to Republik last week for a short but energy packed show. This band has the potential to really make it big even with just two albums under their belt. And their drummer…worth the price of admission alone to see this guy just giv’r for the set. Amazing.

Banff is getting in on the live music scene too, with some top notch acts coming up this summer and fall, including the legendary Gordon Lightfoot and a host of other iconic Canadian performers (I saw Harry Manx a few weeks back and he was mesmerizing). For a small town, Banff is incredibly fortunate to have The Banff Centre, a world class arts and culture institution. I get the feeling that most visitors aren’t aware of it though, but it’s worth seeking out for their constant stream of live performances and series through the year. As a resident, it’s nice to have a taste of the big city in your own backyard.

Despite having a very transient population, I’ve been struck by the sense of community in Banff as I adjust to working in town and making the transition to living there. There are some extremely active and driven residents, not just in the outdoors sense, but in the common desire for making Banff an even better place to live. With a new recreation centre just opened (boasting what must surely be the most scenic curling rink anywhere in the world), stunning new buildings at The Banff Centre, and movements toward a summer farmer’s market, community garden, leash free area, and potential winter outdoor rink downtown, it’s clear to me that Banff is much more than just a tourist town.

That community movement was certainly picking up steam in Toronto, so I’m stoked to see that the same vision exists in small towns. That said, I’ve been surprised to see the lack of any acknowledgment of an election in Banff and Canmore. I suppose with a large chunk of the population coming from overseas it’s understandable, but there’s also a feeling of being back in university with so many educated and diverse 20 somethings around town. Sure, Banff has a reputation for being a party town, but there’s also a great opportunity to learn from some other cultures and widen our world view. It’s unfortunate that there isn’t more interest in the election, although I guess it’s a fait accompli when you live in Alberta these days.

By the time this sadly non-issue election comes to a close, hopefully we’ll be well on our way to the (somewhat) warm weather out here and all the incredible activities on offer!

The Most Beautiful Place on Earth?

This is a bold statement. But a visit to Lake O’Hara easily inspires the thought.

It had been over 5 years since I visited the stunning shores of O’Hara, having been fortunate to work at the iconic Lake O’Hara Lodge for 6 weeks in the fall of 2005. I had always enjoyed the outdoors, but my time there took my appreciation to a new level, and was the genesis of my decision to move out west. A good friend of mine has worked many stints there over the years, and I remain grateful for him opening my eyes to this fantastic place. It is undoubtedly one of Canada’s hidden gems.

For good or bad, O’Hara has been deemed a highly sensitive area, and Parks Canada has placed significant restrictions on access. In the summer, you’ve either got to get lucky to catch the school bus, or don your hiking boots and make the trek up the 12 km road from the parking lot. No bikes allowed! And it’s not easy to spend the night up there – the Lodge is a luxurious, and at about $500 a night, pricey option, while the Alpine Club of Canada’s Elizabeth Parker Hut requires you to enter your desired dates into a lottery 6 months ahead of time.

The winter, on the other hand, allows a far more likely to visit, albeit requiring a cross country ski along the largely uphill road. Reservations for the Hut can be scarce on the weekends, but with a little luck (or some time off during the week), an opening is likely.

My roommate and I set out from chilly Canmore on a Saturday morning, arriving in sunny Lake Louise to pick up forgotten necessities (like ear plugs, handy in a cabin of 16) and a quick bite. From there it’s a short drive to the O’Hara parking lot, and the start of the long ski up. For the most part, the elevation gain is fairly gentle, and with a few nourishing stops along the way, not nearly as bad as I had thought. The continually changing scenery also helps take your mind off the skiing, with huge ragged mountains in the near distance, beyond the wrapping road of towering pines. Arriving in about 3 hours, we had just enough time to settle in and check out the nearby lake before darkness settled in and time for dinner.

Now, there really isn’t much you need when heading out to a fully decked out cabin in the winter. A sleeping bag and food are fairly essential, but I’d also add a light, or better yet, a headlamp to that list. Especially in the winter. Cooking in the dim light of a solitary propane flame is a bit of a challenge, and makes one quickly appreciate the comforts of daily life. But a headlight is even handier for those quick trips to the loo, as I soon discovered, taking a wrong turn out the front door.

For what possible good reason would someone have dug a 5 foot pit in the snow? Apparently, to lure me into its cavernous depth, and make for an entertaining anecdote. I wonder how many other poor lightless souls it has happily captured this winter.

But with no harm done, we spent a relaxing evening in the company of various visitors, heated by a toasty fire and good wine and spirits. The communal feel is anchored by the sleeping arrangement; two rows of wide, connected mattresses, forming a super sized bunk bed for over a dozen. The morning soon came, with a bright blue sky promising superb views and photos.

We headed out along a slightly dubious trail to connect with O’Hara, requiring us to ditch the skis and do a bit of hiking as we passed by Mary Lake. As we exited the forest, the 360 mountain panorama of O’Hara quickly filled our vision. Lake Louise is perhaps the most iconic image of Canada, but doesn’t even come close to stacking up with O’Hara. No wonder Group of Seven members like J.E.H. MacDonald found inspiration out here, producing some of their most stunning works. Photos just don’t do justice to the overwhelming sense of awe inspired by the countless peaks that surround the lake and beyond. Circling the lake, the view changes dramatically, constantly revealing new angles and summits.

After dozens of photographs, and a quick stop inside the Lodge (and its copious collection of area paintings and photos), it was off to the Hut to grab our gear and make our way back. I had understood a trail leading through the woods and across a few lakes to later rejoin the road was an easy and enjoyable route, so set off in that direction while my partner took the direct route. Not a wise choice. Especially on cross country skis.

The route is not only almost all uphill, but incredibly narrow and windy. Lightly traveled, the snow was so soft that poles were just about useless. As the trail bends further away from the road, it eventually dips in places, steeply enough that I was forced to plunge myself into the powder to slow down and avoid the trees. I had the unfortunate luck of bailing to the wrong side of the steep slope at one point, tumbling down and forcing myself to climb back up to the trail, waist deep in a sea of snow. I quickly realized how much respect is needed for the backcountry, especially when alone. And this was just on well marked trails. Ski touring would be a whole other ball game.

I eventually made it out of the woods, and down onto another trail, finally rejoining the road well past my expected time. By this point, the scenery had become a footnote, as I booked it down the trail in an effort to catch up with my partner, to no avail. But despite the unforeseen (and not exactly enjoyable) detour into the woods, I emerged with a renewed sense of independence and accomplishment. And I think that’s a large part of what makes the mountains so exhilarating, that feeling of the unknown and the ability to overcome challenges. I realize my little side journey was just the tip of the iceberg, but I can definitely understand why so many people crave that adventure.

The Ultimate Drive (Part II)

So I thought the drive from Fernie to Nelson was impressive…but the drive back to Canmore was pretty incredible too.

My return trip home followed as different a route as possible, taking the 3A northeast into the tiny port of Balfour (which has a delicious bakery conveniently located beside the ferry docks). The 35 minute ferry from there crosses Kootenay Lake to Kootenay Bay. I’ve never been so cold in my entire life as when I stood on the bow, with the icy wind just howling. The view was pretty amazing for the brief time I could stand it, especially with the frosty mist dancing on the waves.

After disembarking, the road climbs northeast then bends to the south and hugs the Lake all the way to its southern tip, just before Creston. This has got to be one of the most scenic drives in Canada. Passing through small artsy towns like Gray Creek (where they’re proud to be metric free – some expat Americans perhaps?), the road offers stunning vistas of the lake, hills and mountains all around. The majority of the drive was filled with a bright blue sky, and it was easy to think it were spring if not for a quick glance at the thermometer, indicating about -15C. After passing through a brief snowstorm, the sun quickly returned, showing just how fickle the weather can be in the area.

The route passes back through the Creston to Cranbrook corridor, but was an entirely different drive with nice weather. It was surprising to see how different things looked with blue sky as opposed to the overcast, snowy conditions I encountered westbound. It’s funny – on my way west a couple days earlier, I was disappointed to find it so blustery, wishing to see what it looked like with a bright sky. But on the sunny return trip I found myself missing those earlier conditions. The drive just seemed a little too…dull. I suppose it’s another case of imagining the grass being greener on the other side. To illustrate the difference, I took two photos from the same location, just west of Cranbrook, almost exactly 48 hours apart.

From Cranbrook, it’s a fairly straight but long drive north along 93/95 through the towns of Canal Flats, Fairmont Hot Springs (not affiliated with the hotel chain), Invermere and Radium Hot Springs before branching off into Kootenay National Park. This is a pretty scenic drive in its own regard, with the wide, barren valley framed by the towering peaks to the east and west. It passes through some beautiful forested areas and hoodoos, and offers some great vistas of both Columbia Lake and Windermere Lake too. (Quick aside – those hoodoos actually saved me about $150 the way I see it. I pulled over to take a few pics, letting a couple cars go by. I caught up to one of them 10 minutes later just in time to see a cop car turn on his sirens as he passed us in the opposite direction, turning around to pull over the car in front of me. It would have been an expensive choice to not take those photos!)

The entrance to Kootenay NP is pretty incredible; you have to pass through a narrow gap in the rock, physically separating you from the valley behind and with nothing but mountains and National Parks ahead. This is a far less traveled route than the Trans Canada through Banff and Lake Louise, yet offers similarly inspiring views as it climbs and then descends to the valley. It’s really amazing to see how much snow gathers here compared to the bare fields just to the west of the park. During the few times I stopped while driving through Kootenay NP, I was struck by the silence and solitude. That sense of seclusion is truly one of the greatest gifts that our parks can offer us.

Come summer, the towns of Banff, Lake Louise and Canmore will be packed with tourists, as will the nearby popular trails. But with a little effort I think it’s possible to get off the beaten track and immerse oneself in the wilderness. After all, there is no shortage of parks, trails and campgrounds in the area. That said, the winter really is an amazing time to see and experience the surroundings, as there are so few others out there. And snow capped mountains and frosted pine trees make for unbeatable scenery. So maybe the key is to embrace winter tourism (but just don’t tell anyone!).

Music Highlights:

It was a double dose of Canadian troubadours for the drive, one a legend, the other well on his way to becoming one.

Neil Young: After the Goldrush, Harvest Moon, Prairie Wind, and Le Noise

Joel Plaskett: One, Two, Three and Ashtray Rock

Full Nelson

Whoa. Nelson is one wicked town! Kind of like Fernie but quadrupled in just about every aspect. I had heard nothing but good things about the place (and a lot of references to hippies and dope) but none of it did it justice. This is undoubtedly one of the coolest places I’ve ever been to in North America – there is just so much life, history and culture here!

The city lies about halfway between Vancouver and Calgary, so it seems to have remained relatively untouched from the second home/cottage phenomenon so prevalent in places like Canmore, Fernie and Whistler. It’s isolation is key to understanding the city’s fierce independence and tangible culture. It does however lie in relative proximity to smaller places like Castlegar, Creston and Trail, and seems to be a hub for these towns.

Blessed with the 3rd most heritage buildings in BC (other than Vancouver and Victoria), the city has fully embraced its history, preserving and refurbishing many classics in the downtown area. Nelson struck me as an incredibly sustainable place – for a city of approximately 10,000 there is relatively little sprawl, and certainly no “power centres” to suck the life out of the core. Even though there is a Walmart in Nelson, it’s within walking distance of downtown, something I don’t think I’ve seen before.

Although the streetcars that once ran along the roads and up the steep hill a la San Fran are long gone, it feels like relatively little else has changed structurally since. The bustling streets, especially the main strip along historic Baker St, are full of eclectic independent retailers, including numerous cafes, antique shops, outdoor stores, quirky restaurants, and a top notch food co-op. Almost all of them are housed in heritage buildings. Even most of the banks are still in their original locations, and the vintage civic centre is home to one of the most classic arenas I’ve ever seen. There’s also an incredibly funky cafe just off Baker, the Preserved Seed, which I’m pretty sure doubles as Bilbo Baggins’ second home.

I’d be remiss not to mention Oso Negro, a relatively new cafe just up from Baker St. They are best known for their roastery business, which is in a separate location (in fact the same building as Nelson Brewing Company – the smell of freshly brewed beer and coffee while walking past is intoxicating!). Oso Negro serves up a mean Canadiano, a beverage I’d never heard of before, but makes perfect sense. Forget an Americano – this homegrown version replaces hot water with coffee over top an espresso. Delicious.

For the architecturally inclined, there are a few real gems all located at the main intersection. Like Fernie, Nelson has an impressive court house, albeit attached to a modern and less inspiring city hall. Perhaps the most impressive building remains the town’s museum, Touchstones Nelson. It has a rich history itself, serving as home to both the post office and city hall in the past before being converted its current use for museum, art gallery and archives. Forming the triangle to these landmarks is the Hume Hotel.

Although not as externally magnificent as it once was, the interior is stunning. The place has everything under one roof, including hotel rooms, an historic restaurant, liquor store, nightclub/lounge, and the awesome Mike’s Place Pub. Despite the rather dull name, this is one of the most authentic, charming, and lively pubs I’ve ever seen. And with 5 Nelson Brewing Company beers on tap and a couple big screen TVs for the game, it’s no wonder I found myself having dinner here both nights while in town.

Nelson has also become a real hotbed for live music, and I was fortunate to score a ticket for funk/soul/jazz/blues legend Maceo Parker and his 9 piece band at the Hume Hotel’s intimate downstairs lounge. I had no idea what to expect but was informed that I HAD to see this show if at all possible. Parker played with James Brown for ages, and his influence spans multiple genres. At 68, he was showing no signs of fatigue in a 3 hour set that kept the crowd constantly moving and grooving. This was easily one of the best live shows I’ve ever seen, made all the more intense by the feeling of seeing it in your buddy’s decked out basement.

And Nelson just happens to sit on an arm of the picturesque Kootenay Lake, with tree lined mountains rising in every direction and plenty of snowcapped peaks. Apparently this unfrozen lake and the lower elevation is supposed to keep the town fairly warm through the winter. But not while I was in town – the frigid weather was on everyone’s mind. Still, this is a hell of a beautiful place, and the city strikes the right note of a vibrant culture, rich history, variety of activity, busy downtown, and just about everything else you could want. Looking back over my checklist over a perfect city, I think Nelson pretty much nails everything and then some. I’m looking forward to a return trip already…

Music Highlights:

Mike’s Place Pub – great music at a pub is highly underrated. I don’t know what station or mix they had on, but it was an endless stream of awesome classic rock.

Beer Highlights:

Nelson Brewing Company – this is a hell of a brewery. Located in a historic building (of course, it’s Nelson) a few blocks from downtown, they produce some top notch organic ales, including the awesome Paddywhack IPA, Blackheart Stout and Faceplant Winter Ale. Business is booming, requiring the recent addition of larger tanks which just barely squeezed into their antique digs. Fitting that their bottling line looks to be almost as old as the building itself! But it seems to still work, as the city’s support has been tremendous. Their beers are available just about anywhere in town – if a place doesn’t carry it, it’s probably a good sign to head elsewhere.

Epic Drive: Fernie to Nelson

I’ve had some pretty scenic drives since I left Toronto, but the Crowsnest route between Fernie and Nelson might just top them all, especially in the winter. It’s definitely not a straight shot from one town to the other, but that’s the beauty of it. The winding and mostly quiet drive is chock full of jaw dropping views, but requires constant attention, especially in the middle. And the beauty of this drive is the obvious fact that its cemented by two killer towns!

Fort Steele

The Fernie-Cranbrook stretch is somewhat unremarkable, at least compared to the rest of the route. But just outside of Cranbrook is the heritage town extraordinaire, Fort Steele. I had seen the brochures for the place ahead of time, and figured it was just a small functioning town with a few historic buildings. Nope. It’s a ridiculously well preserved town all on its own.

Quick aside – I received a National Parks pass, and was excited to check out all the historic sites and buildings on my way west, only to discover that just about everything is closed for the season. But behind every dark cloud is a silver lining. And in the case of historic sites, with a little effort, it’s often possible to see at least the sites and buildings at any time despite not going inside them. The beauty is that you almost always have the whole place to yourself.

That was indeed the case with my visit to Fort Steele. Arriving before opening hours, I wandered over to the antique trains, and quickly found myself in the presence of a dozen majestic Clydesdales. I had never seen these horses up close or removed from their stables or pens. Watching them march across the frozen ground with their powder white feet silhouetted against their massive dark brown trunks was mesmerizing. I later saw a separate pair chowing down on hay in a pen inside the town, but it was a totally different experience than seeing them in a more natural and unrestrained environment.

The town itself boasts over 40 historic buildings, including a movie theatre, stables, post office, bakery, hotel, general store, and so on. Almost all of them look to have received relatively fresh paint jobs, but done so well enough to still allow for an air of authenticity. Walking around this town was as close as I’ve ever come to strolling along one of those historic main streets we imagine out of a western movie, or a gold mining town. Somehow it felt even more real when desolate – I imagine seeing tourists (like myself, I realize) would instantly remind you of the modern reality of the environment. Regardless, this place is a gem for those with even a fleeting interest in history.

About 10 minutes west lies Cranbrook, the largest centre east of Nelson until Lethbridge. I can’t say that I was overly taken by the city, but it does have a railway museum with some potential. I say potential as I wasn’t permitted to visit the rail cars nor the stately ballroom in the old train station. The drive up till Cranbrook was surprisingly dry, with a relatively light snow cover on surrounding trees and fields. But as soon as you get west of the city, it’s a whole different ballgame.

The snow thick west of Cranbrook, with Seussian pine trees and their fat snowy mounds lining the drive as far as the eye can see. Even though the day was overcast and the wind howled with blowing snow, it still made for incredible views. After passing through the tiny town of Yahk, it’s about another 30 minutes to Creston and a brief pause from the scenery. The Columbia Brewery (home of Kokanee) makes its home here, and it’s quite a change from the microbreweries I’ve visited along the way.

From Creston, there are 2 ways to get to Nelson; follow highway 3A northwards along the shore of Kootenay Lake, or head west along the Crowsnest and through the Kootenay Pass. I chose the latter, and was fortunate that conditions were about as good as you can expect at this time of year. This was helpful as I had trouble paying attention to the road. It follows an unbelievably scenic river, and the views of it from the lower elevation are stunning. The road climbs and climbs to an elevation of 1774 metres, then finally makes a long drop down. I passed a few trucks, but for the most part, it was a desolate stretch of road.

Despite traveling in the heated comfort of a vehicle, I felt a new found appreciation and awe for natives and explorers who must have made similar treks under far worse conditions. Not only did they have to discover the most manageable routes, but then to lug all their gear must have required a superhuman effort of strength and willpower. So when we complain about road closures and weather conditions, it seems just a tad trivial compared to a short time ago.

The road splits at the west gate to the pass, and I decided to veer south to make my first visit to the US of the trip, headed for the sleepy town of Metaline Falls. Saying this is a quiet border crossing would be an understatement. The solitary border guard spent at least 10 minutes peppering me with questions and digging through my vehicle, apparently not trusting my rationale for visiting – I just want to buy some Washington beer! I suppose she also didn’t have much else to do.

A lone farm just north of the border

As I headed towards Metaline Falls, I was struck by the realization that the border crossing lies at the peak of the road. I was literally descending from Canada into the US, after having been at the summit of the Kootenay Pass not 30 minutes prior. It somehow felt appropriate to make the climb back to Canada and continue on to Nelson. It’s a fairly short drive from the border, passing through the small towns of Salmo and Ymir (even smaller) before making the final descent into Nelson.

Music Highlights:

Steely Dan - Can’t Buy a Thrill (a classic, some great gems in here like Reelin’ in the Years)

Bruce Springsteen – Darkness on the Edge of Town

Gordon Lightfoot – a random sampling of tunes, including classics Alberta Bound, Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald and Canadian Railroad Trilogy.

Elliott Brood – Ambassador and Mountain Meadows

Blue Rodeo - Diamond Mine

Fernie Fernie Fernie!

Oh man. I dig Fernie. Let me count the ways I love thee.

Fernie Courthouse

History: For a North American small town, it just oozes the stuff. Although it was pretty much demolished about 100 years ago in a huge fire, a couple landmark buildings survived (such as City Hall). The citizens then went to work to rebuild the town, and somehow a ton of them have survived. A walk down historic main street will have you stopping and gawking about every 30 feet at an old building. In addition, there are a number of other amazing spots, including churches, residences, the train station, and stunning courthouse. The town has even produced a “Heritage Walking Tour” booklet outlining the story behind each of these places – well worth the $5.

Culture: Perhaps the best way to describe this place may be as the Mal Pais (or insert any other awesome surfing town here) of the Great White North. It’s an outsider’s paradise, and dare I say a snowboarder mecca. Nowhere was this more obvious than the crazy cool board store/restaurant combo End of the World/El Guapo. The place opened in ’99 and pretty much doubles as a snowboarding museum, with tons of old boards and stories about the evolution of the sport. It also boasts a bike park in the back, and tons of music memorabilia scattered amidst the boarding clothes and gear, including set lists, ticket stubs, guitars, album covers and more. The whole place reminds me of your coolest friends basement…and the Mexican food is pretty damn tasty to boot.

Main street, Fernie

Skiing/Outdoors: Although Fernie was originally a coal town, the ski industry has definitely become the numero uno reason to visit and live here. Unfortunately, I didn’t get a chance to hit the slopes, but from all indications, it has some of the best snow (which I can testify to from seeing 8 foot snowbanks around town) combined with multiple bowls and tons of runs. Add in snowmobiling, cross country skiing and multiple summer sports and this is a pretty sweet spot.

Fernie also has a great microbrewery in town (of the same name), and it seems that most of the pubs and restaurants have enthusiastically embraced them. They’ve got a shiny new building just on the outskirts of town, and are pumping out some tasty brews.

Fernie Meat Market

Other highlights included the Fernie Meat Market (really!) which has been operated by the same family for over 80 years. They have an incredible collection of old photos and food and beverage memorabilia (and make some fine sandwiches).

Despite being a relatively small town, it definitely has a lively scene and lots to do. Bars and pubs were quite busy, and I lucked into attending an amazing talk about wolverines at the historic train station (since turned into an art gallery, theatre space and cafe, again proving the value of preserving such historically significant buildings). Little was known about these fascinating carnivores until the past couple of decades, and a recent scientific expedition discovered how incredibly far-ranging these mini grizzly bears are. One of the animals under study not only scaled the 5,000 foot face of a 10,000 foot mountain, but did so in 90 minutes (!). Their range often extends over 500 square acres, and because males generally don’t occupy the same area, it’s no wonder they are just about impossible to see.

And all this set amidst densely forested mountains and jagged peaks in the distance, with the Crowsnest Pass to the east and the Kootenay Pass to the west. Fernie has something for everyone, and is well, well worth the trek!

Beer Highlights:

The Brick House

The Brick House – A great gastropub, proudly serving up all local brews on tap. With occasional live music and great food, set in a renovated bank building (but still quite original from the outside), it’s tough to go wrong here.

Picnic – An upscale restaurant with a modern, funky and artsy vibe. Picnic is also in a historic building, and the old stone shows through in spots on the inside. Thoughtful tapas style food was ridiculously tasty, and you can feel good about ordering a beer here; $1 from each pint of Fernie Pale Ale (dubbed Picnic Pale Ale) goes to the Fernie Women’s Shelter.

On the road again…

Having been settled in Canmore for the past month I figured it was time to hit the road again, seeing as how I’ve got a week off before starting my new job.

So the rough itinerary is as follows: Fernie, Nelson, and Golden, with a few towns thrown in between for good measure. Traveling through the BC interior will be stupidly scenic if the first leg of the trip is any indication.

Bar U Ranch

My route brought me south from Calgary along the Cowboy Trail, which heads south towards Crowsnest Pass. It’s gotta be one of the best drives since Lake Superior – amazing views of the mountains on the right, with endless rolling hills and ranches in between (not to mention the chance to pick up some mean beef jerky in Longview – tagged as world famous – and pretty damn good).

A little further south and you’ll pass the Bar U Ranch, a national historic site. I’ll admit – I figured this was just some tiny ranch in the middle of nowhere (well, with a name like Bar U, what do you expect?). But it’s quite impressive – it’s almost a small village, with about a dozen historic buildings, and remains an active ranch. Although closed in the winter, I was fortunate to be able to drive around the site and check out the visitors centre in the midst of renovations. This would be well worth the stop during the summer.

Frank Slide

As for the skiing, I went to Castle mountain, a fairly quiet spot just southeast of Crowsnest Pass. Just past the turnoff for Castle is the Leitch Colleries provincial historic site, an impressive collection of old stone buildings and ruins.

Heading west to Fernie it’s worth taking the Crowsnest Pass historic route, meandering through a few small towns. The buildings in a lot of the main streets really show their age – it’s definitely a trip back in time seeing places like this that have been untouched by the cosmetic tentacles of tourism.

I passed through the (ex) town of Frank a little further west. The area is notable for the Frank Slide, and the resulting demolition of most of the town over a hundred years ago. The view from the visitors centre is quite something – it’s almost like looking out over a sea of rocks. It’s unbelievable how far the rocks cascaded through the valley as the mountain gave way.

From here, the Crowsnest Pass highway is fairly windy (in both senses) as it climbs and crosses the border into BC. I pulled over to take a picture of Crowsnest Lake (still on the Alberta side) just before the pass, and although the temperature wasn’t all that low, it was sure cold as the wind howled. The view was quite different than in the summer!

Crowsnest Lake

I take it this section of the route can get some serious snow, as evidenced by the highway gates about 20km apart. Fortunately the snow wasn’t coming down too hard, and a few minutes later I spotted my first moose since I left Ontario (finally!).

The road follows the winding river, and passes through Sparwood, notable for boasting the world’s largest truck. The yellow monster is unquestionably gigantic – I could only reach about 3/4 of the way up the tire! From there it’s only another 15 minutes or so to Fernie, one of the coolest towns I’ve ever visited…but I’ll leave that for another post.

Music Highlights:

A double dose of The Decembrists – The Crane Wife and The King is Dead

Sam Roberts - We Were Born in a Flame

Wildlife:

Way too many deer to keep count, and a huge solitary moose.